Zenith

We already noted that Fehr & Cie is a fully integrated dial-maker. This implies that they dispose of all necessary capabilities, in terms of expertise and technical equipment, needed to accomplish all steps involved. No wonder they have reserved a dedicated department for production of (applied) indices:

Have you ever realised how complex a contemporary index design could be? Believe it or not, this are technical drawings of two Zenith applied indexes! Guess for what référence they are (actually, that’s quite a task as Zenith uses a really consistent index shape throughout its main collection)!

So, we are talking about lots of tiny, tiny details concentrated on a miniscule surface. Producing them requires high precision and decidedly subtle usage of force. The indices are, just like their dial counterparts, cut out of solid brass plates. Here we have some examples:

Most of the applied indexes are of a simple shape and require a polished finishing. Given their tiny dimensions and extreme fragility, they have to previously be mounted on a supporting frame.

Others, such as the Zenith indices on the drawing above, have several angled but straight surfaces which need to be worked on at various positions. Those are mounted on specialised frames that allow polishing them longitudinally and transversally:

If indices are to receive a matte finish (e.g. on flanks) they are worked on in a tumble polish machine. If matte surfaces are to be applied only on specific sides, the tumbling takes place before mirror polishing.

We think this picture is incredible: who would not love to have such a collection of logos and indexes at home!

After the indices are completed to their final degree of finishing, they are very patiently mounted on a frame...

… and subjected to colouration by electroplating (with basically a similar technique as the ones used for dial blanks).

Finally, they are handed over (pun intended) to a last quality check…

… before they are finally applied onto their respective dial: Compare the size of the individual pieces to the operator's hand - wow! Sooo small!

Would you like seeing a pure example of the meaning of words like "meticulous", "accurate", etc! Take a look on this bench:

The indices have small feet on their underside to facilitate precise positioning at their destined spot on the dial.





The feet fit into corresponding tiny wholes on the dial plates. 

Dial after dial is approaching perfection...

Bottom line:

So we finally have a finished and completed dial. To produce the "face" of our watch really is a serious task and involves various professions all working interlinked with each other. Yet surprisingly, dial-makers such a Fehr offer a very high level of flexibility that is possible not only because of its adaptable machinery but above because of its work-force: all the women and men who passionately work for our enjoyment, are ready to the challenge of trying their skills at a design and/or a technology never tired before, happily fulfilled just every time we take a glimpse on our beloved wristwatch.

Being fortunate of having had the opportunity to take part in PoT 2014, we are often mystified when we – once more – take a closer look at the face of one watch. All those perfectly executed details now have a special meaning to us, possessing now a deeper insight into the subtleties of creating such a detailed micro-environment. A dial in fact represents a complex work of art and beauty but to no lesser extent also demanding technique and precision. Sure: precision! Just the same thing as we expect from our much-appreciated movements.

Probably this kind of feeling is amplified due to the fact that companies like Fehr & Cie S.A. supply a great number of different brands, thereby extending their skills to many, many dials all made with exactly the same care and overcoming similar (if not the same) challenges. Thus, again, as a reminder, the image from the start:

With this we want to close the chapter on watch dials. Our gratitude goes to Zenith, who organised the Fehr factory visit: for sure it was an excellent idea to let us appreciate the "world" of dial making in all detail (pun intended). Our sincere thanks goes to Fehr & Cie and equally to all of their kind employees who patiently allowed us to peek over their shoulders and to interrupt their work. We would like to express our gratitude especially to Fehr’s CEO, Monsieur Luthi, who dedicated a significant amount of his precious time to guide us through the factory.

We hope we've passed on clear information on this very intensive visit. If so, we are sure that you agree with us that from now on every dial has its own story to tell… Thank you all for reading; and stay tuned: we're preparing a report on the Zenith factory tour, to be posted ASAP!