Great way to spend a few hours at the coffee house! (Plus critique...)

Jun 09, 2014,14:48 PM
 

A very convincing photo essay, as always. The close-up shot of the sharply-edged indices is my favorite. 


The Zenith shows plenty of quality, which your photography really highlights. I really like some of the designs coming out of Zenith, but they still aren't quite there for me. Nothing that hits the same high notes as the Chronomaster Triple Date and the New Vintage 1969. Or the real vintage pieces, where the subdial proportions were not an afterthought.

I want to return to the subdial for my main criticism. I am not that bothered by the overlapping subdials themselves. Many watches feature overlap subdials, usually to provide some sort of aesthetic balance. Since mechanical watches are fashion accessories - precise measurements would dictate the use of a digital tool instead, aesthetics are just as important as legibility.  

What would bother me, if I was considering a purchase, is the four minor ticks between each hour on the elapsed hours subdial. I might not even notice it until after I purchase the watch, but it would drive me to catch and release eventually. It feels a bit silly to zoom in on this tiny detail, but great watches are great because they get these tiny details right.  

There are four ticks between each hour, which means each tick is measuring a 1/5th of an hour. I have to do a double take. That's 12 minutes per minor tick, right? Does anyone mentally divide the hour into 12 minute intervals? 

Furthermore, the elapsed minutes subdial measures 30 minute intervals. That's 2.5 minor ticks on the hours subdial. The extra minor tick makes it much harder to read off the elapsed time at a glance.

Was there somebody on the design committee that looked at a prototype sketch with three minor ticks between each hour and said, "No, no, no - that looks terrible with three minor ticks. Let's go with four because that will look much better." 

Now for some positives. I really like the new location of the date window compared to the older El Primero designs. I like the small touch of red on the elapsed seconds hand. I like the faceted lugs. I like the watch's proportions. I really like the El Primero movement, although it would be nice if it was eventually upgraded to include a hack function.


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Zenith Coffee House Tales (ii): El Primero 36000 VpH: A Lady in Black!

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : June 9th, 2014-11:03
After last week's disturbing news of the new commemorative edition I spent a rather reassuring fine afternoon with Zenith's Miss R , again in the same coffee house Sperl as in my previous (and first) post in this series, but this time with a quite differe...  

Thumbs up

 
 By: Spellbound : June 9th, 2014-11:49
Although 42mm works perfect, I do prefer the dial aesthetics of the 38mm El Primero's with the relatively larger subdials vs dial. The overlapping subdials not an issue as it is still readable to anyone with half a brain, and aesthetically it works better... 

38 vs. 42mm - would be insightful to compare...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : June 10th, 2014-12:45
and Zenith luckily provides the right tools for it... Thanks for the flowers re: imagery - always trying! Cheers, Magnus P.S.: Bad lightning in coffee shops - yes - but this was in a coffee house ... ...  

El Primero is great!

 
 By: dr.kol : June 9th, 2014-12:55
I just found a perfect 40 mm Chronomaster and paid it today. Latest on Wednesday evening I should have that on my wrist. Best, Kari

Wow

 
 By: klaus.marcher : June 9th, 2014-13:07
Thanks for a very interesting read Magnus and a very nice watch. I like the black dial very much. Here is my version. BR Klaus ...  

Congrats and welcome here, Klaus (more)

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : June 10th, 2014-12:53
what an exciting introduction with such a wonderful watch. Which model is this? Same collection, for sure, but different subdial design and layout (indices partition different than the one I presented). Anyway, if you have more to share (images, musing, c... 

Thanks

 
 By: klaus.marcher : June 11th, 2014-12:08
Thanks Magnus. I am a long time lurker here but being mainly a Rolex guy I have been frequenting other forums. I am a hugh fan of Zenith and my first automatic was a De Luca which I have had in almost all versions. The only Zenith I currently own is the 3...  

Great way to spend a few hours at the coffee house! (Plus critique...)

 
 By: jmpTT : June 9th, 2014-14:48
A very convincing photo essay, as always. The close-up shot of the sharply-edged indices is my favorite. The Zenith shows plenty of quality, which your photography really highlights. I really like some of the designs coming out of Zenith, but they still a... 

Getting these tiny details right...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : June 10th, 2014-13:06
seems to be an insurmountable task... Honestly, I often shake my head if I discover those small glitches. I mentioned the subdial design incongruence but I missed the (in hindsight) obvious strangeness in their partition. Thanks for pointing this out. Suc... 

Great write up and great shots.

 
 By: ingmar : June 9th, 2014-20:43
I don't own a Zenith. But if I did, this would probably be the model for me. Honestly though, every time I get close they do so,etching I don't like: open "heart" or the Rolling Stomes one those weird stars on the new moonphase. But they put out some clas... 

Thanks Ingmar, yes, Zenith seems to be on a journey...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : June 10th, 2014-12:55
to discover themselves - what they are, what they want to be, how they will go there. Outliers usually plaster such a journey. With the arrival of the new CEO we certainly have interesting times ahead. Magnus

That is a stunning chrono! :)

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : June 9th, 2014-23:26
Thank you for this report and beautiful photos! :) Even if I am not a big fan of chronographs, I must say I find this one very attractive. Best Blomman

Thanks a lot, Blomman! [nt]

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : June 10th, 2014-12:55