jmpTT
732
Great way to spend a few hours at the coffee house! (Plus critique...)
Jun 09, 2014,14:48 PM
A very convincing photo essay, as always. The close-up shot of the sharply-edged indices is my favorite.
The Zenith shows plenty of quality, which your photography really highlights. I really like some of the designs coming out of Zenith, but they still aren't quite there for me. Nothing that hits the same high notes as the Chronomaster Triple Date and the New Vintage 1969. Or the real vintage pieces, where the subdial proportions were not an afterthought.
I want to return to the subdial for my main criticism. I am not that bothered by the overlapping subdials themselves. Many watches feature overlap subdials, usually to provide some sort of aesthetic balance. Since mechanical watches are fashion accessories - precise measurements would dictate the use of a digital tool instead, aesthetics are just as important as legibility.
What would bother me, if I was considering a purchase, is the four minor ticks between each hour on the elapsed hours subdial. I might not even notice it until after I purchase the watch, but it would drive me to catch and release eventually. It feels a bit silly to zoom in on this tiny detail, but great watches are great because they get these tiny details right.
There are four ticks between each hour, which means each tick is measuring a 1/5th of an hour. I have to do a double take. That's 12 minutes per minor tick, right? Does anyone mentally divide the hour into 12 minute intervals?
Furthermore, the elapsed minutes subdial measures 30 minute intervals. That's 2.5 minor ticks on the hours subdial. The extra minor tick makes it much harder to read off the elapsed time at a glance.
Was there somebody on the design committee that looked at a prototype sketch with three minor ticks between each hour and said, "No, no, no - that looks terrible with three minor ticks. Let's go with four because that will look much better."
Now for some positives. I really like the new location of the date window compared to the older El Primero designs. I like the small touch of red on the elapsed seconds hand. I like the faceted lugs. I like the watch's proportions. I really like the El Primero movement, although it would be nice if it was eventually upgraded to include a hack function.