Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
Geneva Week 2015 Zenith: homage to Charles Vermot, artistry and magical refinements!
Jan 29, 2015,07:45 AM
Geneva in January - that is first and foremost
SIHH, but there are a few other brands who seize the opportunity to present themselves - one of them is
Zenith. Geneva is a side-event for them, which the brand uses to present refinements (see Art's, Oliver's and my report from 2014 -
here !). This year was no exception!
Unmistakable highlight was another iteration of the
Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage (3 Hallelujahs for a shorter name...!!!),
Version II , which from the front looks exactly like the first one I showed live and in the metal
here .
One of its outstanding features is the unique
gyrotourbillon to eliminate influences on gravity, the second is the absolutely breathtaking artwork represented both in sculpturing and enamelling techniques. Well, you have seen
that...
... but not
this:
While the first iteration sported an extremely artistically done representation of Columbus' vessel Santa Maria which he used for his first voyage in 1492. The new one tells the story of the last pre-colonisation times, with indigenous people (left) presenting Mr Columbus (right) with tropical fruits and a parrot (center). Amazingly done!
... somehow I feel more attracted to the
fruits... ;-)
Are words needed? Sometimes I would like to wear it
'sunny side up'...
Delicate expressions of top-flight craftsmanship, engraving and micro-painting showcase the full measure of Zenith’s virtuosity in creating horological works combining technical refinement with magnificent artistry -
limited to 10 pieces!
Next up is an almost adorable (and finely revised!) version of the
El Primero 36'0000 VPH - here in a steel case and a beautiful vintage-y off-white lacquered dial:
42mm, but note how they fine-tuned the dial: The date moved from 6 to the 4:30 position with a slightly enlarged window (how considerate, thus ensures that Nicolas (amanico) will let this watch untouched so
we can admire it...):
Movement of course is the automatic El Primero 400 B:
It wears quite big, but this is something I would have to confirm... A really classical, charming piece - well done!
Then, the 3 watches of the
Charles Vermot homage collection (Pilot Type 20 GMT, El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Open; Captain Power Reserve) - common features to all:
- special dials
- back crystal sporting a very finely laser-engraved list of all chronometric records Zenith ever was awarded in its 150 years of existence
- limited to 50 pieces
- boutiques-exclusive
First one is the
Pilot Type 20 GMT: 48mm titanium case:
Superb blue sunday dial...
The secret is on the back side: display back revealing an
Elite movement (hey, and it does not look too small even,
quelle surprise) and unique engraved case-back:
48mm of gorgeousness. Too big for most (including myself), but a serious watch for sure with very delicate and subtle limitation features!
Second piece is the
El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Open. Comes in steel (42mm) with a blue sun ray dial highlighting the silicon escapement parts:
Adorned display back as above:
Last of then is the Captain Power Reserve, with a velvet-finshed black dial, powered by an Elite movement
Also here the common theme:
This is what I would call
a speciality for those in the know...
The
El Primero Synopsis is expanded by this rather sexy contender, in black with a steel case...
The family membership to the famous
El Primero can't be overlooked. Note also the silicon escapement:
And finally a lovely piec for the ladies: An
El Primero Open with an interwoven diamond-set bezel - note the two intertwined lines of diamonds on a oval bezel:
Mechanics taken serious also for the ladies:
This one come in steel, but can be had in red gold with a MOP or a slate-grey velvet finished dial as well (the latter being very tempting I suppose...).
Finally - I have only press images but those are really fantastic - the three versions of a very restrained and elegant Captain Winsor Annual Calendar (boutique-only!). I have seen the one in the middle last year but the left and the right one - tempting:
That's all I have - there s more but this will have to wait until I had the chance to see them in 'nature' (for which I can't wait...!!!). A new refined design, very well matching to Zenith as the mechanical brand which let's the intrinsic value speak for itself - what is your opinion?
Best,
Magnus
(Note: last year we could count on the help of Art in drafting the text. This year it was the other way round: François (foversta) had the appointment and took the images, yours truly did the backoffice writing. I will have the opportunity the see the watches soon and will report back. Until then a big thanks to FX for helping us getting the news out in a true PuristS' collaboration!)
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-02-02 01:09:57