Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
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2014 - reflecting on a lively year for Zenith!
As the year 2014 draws to its end, let's take stock on what has proven to be a lively year for the comparatively small brand Zenith. The last 12 months have seen some ups and downs, some of them universally appreciated, some more contested classifications.
Refinements & homages - cornerstones of manufactures with tradition:
It started all quite slowly with some remarkably refined alterations on existing collections, such as the Zenith Captain (read the PuristSPro review in our Zenith Pre-Basel 2014 article here ), the which benefitted from a cleaner dial layout and some very cleverly added details (such as the new indices). A masterpiece if it comes to attracting attention with a very classic design:
Of the highly appreciated introductions were masterfully done re-editions of uncontested classics (not only for Zenith, but for the history of watchmaking in its entirety). One such was the Zenith El Primero 36'000 VPH (almost) in its original 1969 design (my Coffee House Tale is located here )...
... and a second one the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow, a watch which takes tokens from its ancestor, but implements them with a much more forward-looming attitude (more here ):
Thirdly, we have seen (at least in Austria and CEE) special editions confined to regional markets. Those are often absolutely mesmerising designs (based on current references), and I know that several industry insiders are quite jealous about them. As an example, here is the Zenith El Primero ChronoMaster Terra (more here ):
Per aspera ad astra - in horological and artistic sense:
A bit later in the year and throughout, we were treated withthe 'obvious highlights', mechanical and/or artistic wonders which - to Zenith - are rather new lands. There is the Zenith Montre d'Aéronef Type 20 Grand Feu, an otherworldly etheral watch crafted in translucent sapphire and adorned with a Grand Feu enamel dial. Totally beyond its designation as a tool watch, but at the same time so much out of its way that it is admirable on its own right. More here !
Absoltuely superb, aethetically and technically, is the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Grand Voyage, with its gyroscopic gimbal system. This year it teased us with some so far unseen engraving, skulpturing and enamelling artwork. Its really worthwhile to take some time to appreciate it in fully, e.g. here !
Absoltuely superb, aethetically and technically, is the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Grand Voyage, with its gyroscopic gimbal system. This year it teased us with some so far unseen engraving, skulpturing and enamelling artwork. Its really worthwhile to take some time to appreciate it in fully, e.g. here !
The piece certainly replaces an entire art gallery - on your wrist, that is!
The a-hem offerings, in metal and in communication:
Then, probably unavoidedly, we have seen more controversial introductions. As an individual watch, the designation goes to the Zenith Pilot Type 20 'Special Edition', which - as specialty - featured a Sellita, but not an in-house Zenith movement. Not a bad watch per se, but where's the technical Zenith DNA? It has been, so I have was reassured, already been discontinued. For more on this, here is a review, and here the latest news regarding the termination of Sellita movements.
Another not universally applauded move was the a newly set focus on marketing partnerships and testimonials, e.g. with the Rolling Stones.
The resulting watch again is not distasteful (here!), but thinking about it one has to ask what exactly does this add to Zenith? Does this attract new and worthwile customers in the future?
Another rather controversial piece is the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute to Felix Baumgartner watch (hands on here ), which packs excellent horological content together with what I would assume to be a rather quickly fading design trend (DLC-coated platinum??) and a presumably even sooner to be forgotten homage (Felix Baumgarnter, who?).
The Guiding Star - El Primero - as young as ever:
The movement now is exactly 45 years old and still ticking on and on and on in its almost original configuration. Very few can claim such a classic status, which makes this anniversary all the more remarkable.
Zenith however has not stood still on its laurels, but instead invested into new materials, but for the El Primero movement itself (silicon escapements, see image)...
... as well as in new case materials and construction methods, such as the carbon/aluminium/titanium-made case of the Zenith El Primero Lightweight:
But I guess one of the most influential news was the appointment of a new CEO, Mr Aldo Magada, formerly Breitling. I have not met him personally, but I had some email exchanges recently. His first decision reportedly was to abandon the non-Zenith movements (i.e. Sellita) and instead to focus on in-house capabilities.
This comes precisely at a time when LVMH watch group's head Jean-Claude Biver announced a repositioning of LVMH's main watch brands (TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot), with Zenith being slotted in as the mechanical center of excellence, focussing on upper-mid to high-end watches.
This comes precisely at a very important time for Zenith: its 150th anniversary in 2015. We have been granted a preview with the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, an aficionado-targetting timepiece with several watchmaking delicacies such as the fusee/chaine-driven force constant mechanism. Please stop by Bruno's excellent images he posted recently (click here ).
This is not exactly 'upper-middle' market segment, but it reinforces what is even more important if you asks me: the watchmaking competence which is very much at the core of Zenith's identity.
If this is only a preview, what then could be expect once 2015 is in full force? Ladies and gentlemen, I heard seom whispers of puristic timepieces which have all ingredients to capture our heart on first view.
Zenith has gone through much ups and downs in the last 10 years. From a sleeping beauty to a 'would-be' rock star (remember Thierry Nataf?) back to a sober lady - quite a journey, with many ups and downs. High tides in the early years of the last decade, lower ones in the later ones (to Sellita or not to Sellita?). Still, all these are signs of insecurity, lack of long term strategy typical for a brand not (yet) having found its ecological niche in the basin full of horological sharks.
Time will tell! But one thing is sure: 2015 won't be a boring year!
I wish you all a peaeful and happy new year 2015, with lots of horological teasing and fulfillment!
All the best,
Magnus
Another not universally applauded move was the a newly set focus on marketing partnerships and testimonials, e.g. with the Rolling Stones.
The resulting watch again is not distasteful (here!), but thinking about it one has to ask what exactly does this add to Zenith? Does this attract new and worthwile customers in the future?
Another rather controversial piece is the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute to Felix Baumgartner watch (hands on here ), which packs excellent horological content together with what I would assume to be a rather quickly fading design trend (DLC-coated platinum??) and a presumably even sooner to be forgotten homage (Felix Baumgarnter, who?).
The Guiding Star - El Primero - as young as ever:
The connecting line between (almost) all these timepieces is a single movement, the El Primero, which marks, quite remarkable, and rightfully so, Zenith's dedication to its landmark achievement. It drives almost all of its watches save for the Elite powered ones (qualifier: 'El Primero' seems to refer to the 36'000 VPH escapement, otherwise the Christophe Colomb watches would not qualify).
The movement now is exactly 45 years old and still ticking on and on and on in its almost original configuration. Very few can claim such a classic status, which makes this anniversary all the more remarkable.
Zenith however has not stood still on its laurels, but instead invested into new materials, but for the El Primero movement itself (silicon escapements, see image)...
... as well as in new case materials and construction methods, such as the carbon/aluminium/titanium-made case of the Zenith El Primero Lightweight:
But I guess one of the most influential news was the appointment of a new CEO, Mr Aldo Magada, formerly Breitling. I have not met him personally, but I had some email exchanges recently. His first decision reportedly was to abandon the non-Zenith movements (i.e. Sellita) and instead to focus on in-house capabilities.
This comes precisely at a time when LVMH watch group's head Jean-Claude Biver announced a repositioning of LVMH's main watch brands (TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot), with Zenith being slotted in as the mechanical center of excellence, focussing on upper-mid to high-end watches.
This comes precisely at a very important time for Zenith: its 150th anniversary in 2015. We have been granted a preview with the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, an aficionado-targetting timepiece with several watchmaking delicacies such as the fusee/chaine-driven force constant mechanism. Please stop by Bruno's excellent images he posted recently (click here ).
This is not exactly 'upper-middle' market segment, but it reinforces what is even more important if you asks me: the watchmaking competence which is very much at the core of Zenith's identity.
If this is only a preview, what then could be expect once 2015 is in full force? Ladies and gentlemen, I heard seom whispers of puristic timepieces which have all ingredients to capture our heart on first view.
Zenith has gone through much ups and downs in the last 10 years. From a sleeping beauty to a 'would-be' rock star (remember Thierry Nataf?) back to a sober lady - quite a journey, with many ups and downs. High tides in the early years of the last decade, lower ones in the later ones (to Sellita or not to Sellita?). Still, all these are signs of insecurity, lack of long term strategy typical for a brand not (yet) having found its ecological niche in the basin full of horological sharks.
This has to stop now.
For a respected and acclaimed brand like Zenith the time is now to concentrate and consistently thrive on core competencies which may prove crucial in a world of economic turbulences, 'watchmaking' over-saturation (in quotation marks because some of which we have seen recently are bona fide astrocities and merely marketing-driven) and upcoming stylish and tasetful smart watches. With a view on upcoming smart watches, I am pretty sure consumers will turn their back (with wallets remaining closed) on marketing-focussed brands only to patronise those who offer great perceived value and content. These are the ones who a most different to an electronic portable device.
With increasingly felt impacts of slowing economic growth and recent regulations in China, uncertainties in the east and in the south, economic stalment in Europe, watch brands will have to do more and better to prove the value of their pieces. Thus I expect further consolidation in the watch industry. Setting the focus now like LVMH has for Zenith, I guess the brand is well-prepared for the upcoming challenges - if it delivers.
Time will tell! But one thing is sure: 2015 won't be a boring year!
I wish you all a peaeful and happy new year 2015, with lots of horological teasing and fulfillment!
All the best,
Magnus
More posts:
2014 - reflecting on a lively year for Zenith!
As the year 2014 draws to its end, let's take stock on what has proven to be a lively year for the comparatively small brand Zenith. The last 12 months have seen some ups and downs, some of them universally appreciated, some more contested classifications...
Magnus, that was a nice post
thank you ! Enjoy the rest of 2014 and may I wish you ( and everybody else on this forum) a great 2015 !
Wonderful review dear Magnus
Controversial year for Zenith to say at least Hoping in better future for both Zenith and us I remain sincerely yours wishing you all the best in 2015 Damjan
Dear Damjan, in a way it is fascinating watching...
a brand trying to sharp its identity and finding its niche. Sometimes exceptional watches are created along the way. Best and a great year 2015 for you, Magnus
Great Post and Review
I am also looking forward to what Zenith will offer in 2015. All the Best to You and Yours in the Coming Year. S
I liked your post, Magnus
I met Aldo Magada here in LA and see good things in the future for Zenith. Still remember J-C Biver's words in Lausanne about AM's career decision to leave JCB's small group of managers and now that he's back I think the motivation to innovate and bring m...
Dear Evan, good news that you could reinforce our sentiments about AM...
let's hope he can implement as much as possible. Have a great time, Magnus
