Zenith Coffee House Tales (xi): Academy Georges Favre-Jacot

Feb 11, 2015,06:44 AM
 

2015 is Zenith's much anticipated anniversary year, an occasion to celebrate the 150th year of the manufacture's existence. Zenith gave us a mouthwateringly delicious taste of what the brand is preparing for to commemorate its history in style: the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot:





It is a thoroughbred timepiece which abounds with delicacies that make us aficionados simply drool. And rightfully so does the brand put in the forefront of this watch a name that is less well known, but even more important for the industry as a whole: Georges Favre-Jacot. Here is why:

"One of the first industrial watch manufactures in the modern sense of the term was born in a small Swiss village. To fully grasp the revolution such a company represented at the time, it is well worth trying to imagine the winter of 1864 in Le Locle, nestled in the Neuchâtel mountains. Like every other year, the season was far too harsh for tilling the soil, which drove farmers to become watchmakers. In 1865, Georges Favre-Jacot, a village youth barely 22 years old, founded his watch factory. It was not the first, nor the only one, but it would change forever the way of producing watches. He had spacious light-filled workshops built in a location where they still stand today. They were the first to be fitted with electric lighting, and he assembled all the region’s key talents there. Over the years, the factory grew into an international company renowned for the excellence of its production, and Georges Favre-Jacot became a captain of industry such as one encounters only a handful per century. While the firm remained under his guidance, the young visionary would consistently inspire his teams with a unique mind-set." [source: Zenith]

So, let's go back to the watch, with some help by means of abstraction kindly provided by Zenith:



On the technical side, the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot naturally houses – what else? – a high-frequency hand-wound El Primero 4810 movement with 50h of power reserve. Occupying the entire lower right-hand side of the dial, the power-reserve display between 4 and 5 o’clock, topped by the inscriptions “Force constante” and “High frequency”, gives an immediate indication of the movement’s high quality. The small seconds subdial between 7 and 8 o’clock bears the logo of the Manufacture with the guiding star.

But the feature that immediately catches the eye and will strike connoisseurs is the upper dial opening revealing the fusée and chain transmission with the barrel between 10 and 11 o’clock and the fusée around which the chain wraps itself located between 1 and 2 o’clock. A few seconds of winding the stem are enough to see the fusée and barrel turning counter-clockwise to the running direction in order for the chain to once again wrap around the fusée. Two bridges screwed to the mainplate support the arbors of the fusée and barrel, giving the watch the look of a late 19th century architectural accomplishment. The barrel is engraved with the inscriptions Zenith/Manufacture Le Locle.



'Time to get closer'... certainly I'd like to oblige:



Being not as cruel as I'd (sometimes) like to be, I'll start with main raison d'être, the usée and chain transmission system crowing the dial, first:



On the left you see the mainspring barrel with the well visible chain attachment (at ca. 11 o'clock).



In fully wound state the chain recoils around the barrel. At this dimensions, its a sight to behold!



If you look carefully you'll notice that Zenith masterfully also decorated the barrel's side with perlage:



Close-up of the chain. 



In the course of transmitting the power from the barrel to the escapement, the chain slowly winds to the fusée with its snail shell-like acclivity. Its the carefully calculate acclivity which holds responsible for the equalisation of force along the mainspring's relaxation. Of course, all these parts are made in-house at Zenith!




To better understand how the power flows I'd suggest a look at the schematics below. Again, it shows the movement from the dual side to ease comprehension. Left, barrel; right, fusée. One wheel from the fusée (at 7 o'clock) drives both the main gear train (gears towards the left) as well as the power reserve indicator (gears towards the right):



The whole system has a very welcome (and quite important to me) side-effect: Not only does it surely improve accuracy, is a sight to behold - no, its also very, very pleasant to wind! Each turn of the crown is a sensation on its own right. If you have the chance to try it - please do! It is really surprising and comparable to the subtle yet precise pusher feel of a well-conceived chronograph movement.



Well, while we are at this is does not hurt to inspect the back side, right? 



Here we'll see a new version of the El Primero called Zenith Cal. 4810, featuring 222 parts, all of which very nicely done and finely finished. The general colour tone is yellow gold...




... with some sparkle if the light shines accordlingly:




The large 3/4 (or better: 4/5?) movement plate has as contrasting elements steel bridges holding the escapement elements (hairspring, balance and escapement wheel):





Absolutely in place with the standard of this movement Zenith opted for a silicon escapement system. Overall, it looks like directly take from a more common El Primero (inclusive of the heat-blued screw securing the regulator), which once more attests to the excellence of this construction!




Another very charming touch is the click system, finely hand-finished and with a crank-connector resembling ancient key-wound pocket watch equivalents:




So much for the inner values, now I would invite you to appreciate the outer elements - its well worth it!



Again, lets' start from the top, but this time we'll focus on sparkles - yes, there are lots of bright spots... Barrel & fusée bridges...



(in detail, since this is what we appreciate...)



... even the chain is polished!



The effect of the light spots is greatly accentuated by its natural contre-point, the egg-shell textured silvery dial. It plays well with levels, as well - note how a second antipode is added in form of the heat-blued, shiny hands!





The hands warrant a much closer look. Not only do they exude a magical dark blue...


... they have literally inner values - such as the mirror-polished hands' eyes. This is something I have rarely seen, but if one takes the time to inspect Zenith watches closely then one might find quite a few how have simply gorgeous hands marvellously executed eyes (some Elites come to mind).




So, in summary I would call this timepiece the horological equivalent to J.S. Bach's Wohltemperiertes Klavier with an extraordinarily wide range of styles combined into a singular œvre. A pleasure to enjoy on a Poltrona Frau chaise....




Special and at the same time elegant and unassuming. Marvellous in- and outside. Still, strictly tuned to a great line of heritage at one of the most respected watchmakers in the industry.






Yes, this is a pièce extraordinaire !



So much that indeed the youngest of the Purists required an extra session with it... the youngest Purists? Yes, the gentleman in the image is nobody else than a Purist gentleman introducing the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot to his son... You really have to start them young, haven't you? 



So, thanks for viewing, and please excuse the images. Not the optimal lightning (terrible mix of artificial and natural, almost impossible to correct... ;-()) in an otherwise quite appropriate location (this time, it was the newly opened Park Hyatt in Vienna). Al always, great thanks to Miss R and the team of Zenith Austria & CEE!



Cheers,
Magnus

P.S.: By mistake I identified the gentleman with hs111 - this is wrong as I learned. He is a Purist nonetheless...

 
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-02-18 11:36:30


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Wow! I have been wondering about the more details about this model...

 
 By: KIH : February 14th, 2015-05:20
... and thank you, Magnus, for the detailed report. Now I understand (a little better) and I would love to handle it more and more! Excellent write-up. Thanks! Ken

More than with any other watch, handling is the key!

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-13:47
Just experience the winding feel, its magnificent! Best, Magnus

Absolutely Stunning!

 
 By: andrewluff : February 14th, 2015-06:10
I had not come across this piece yet... but from your pictures I need to look at it further! It actually looks a lot more wearable than the Christoph Columb and I like the finish of the semi open dial and those beautiful 2 bridges. I am a big fan of their... 

Thanks Andrew, "had not come across this piece yet " ...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-13:49
at least here in my region they are sold out. Which might explain your difficulty. best, MAgnus

Well, it doesn't speak to me as I don't like " holes " in the dial...

 
 By: amanico : February 14th, 2015-06:12
And I much prefer the backside, to be honest. But I am happy to see Zenith playing on this ground. I hope there will be more manual winding movements! Best, and thanks for this well written article. Nicolas

Nico, I am not surprised by your request for more handwound movements...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-13:49
and I am sure you'll be served ;-) Magnus

That is an excellent auspice, Magnus. I will follow that with great care.

 
 By: amanico : February 15th, 2015-13:55
Let's say Basel 2015? ;) Best, Nicolas

Let's mark the date, Nico ;-) [nt]

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-14:05

Looking forward to that! [nt]

 
 By: amanico : February 15th, 2015-14:06

Thant is a beauty!

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : February 14th, 2015-07:11
Strangely enough, even if almost half the dial is "missing" you don't get the feeling of that from your shots, Magnus! I was not a big fan when Zenith made these Defy open dials some years ago... But this I like a lot! :) OK, maybe it is not fair to compa... 

Zenith has pulled off an historical hat trick . . .

 
 By: Dr No : February 14th, 2015-10:32
. . . by combining chronometry innovations spanning three centuries in one movement. 19th century: constant force correction 20th century: high frequency escapement 21st century: silicon escape wheel Really, a special achievement, and quite elegantly, too... 

For me, it is easy: it is my fav Zenith of the last years...

 
 By: foversta : February 14th, 2015-12:16
I really find this watch amazing. I love the way the chain fusée system is highlighted. The dial opening creates a steampunk atmosphere I find fantastic. I had the chance to wear it, I'm still under the charm. And I also think that its price is right due ...  

Agreed . . .

 
 By: Dr No : February 14th, 2015-14:17
. . . and by a wide margin, too. Art

Stunning.

 
 By: patrick_y : February 14th, 2015-13:21
Stunning, but thick. As a fan of chain and fusees I'm pre-disposed to liking this kind of a watch, but the open dial is really not my thing (unless it's a full skeleton watch). Another thing is I don't like tourbillons exposed from the dial. Regardless of... 

I do not think its thick...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-14:02
given the diameter it appears quite well-balanced. But then again a fusée cannot be made thin by definition. Best, Magnus

One of the youngest PuristS seems to be in danger ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 15th, 2015-06:20
or shall I say his father. One has to feed the passion :-) "the horological equivalent to J.S. Bach's Wohltemperiertes Klavier" If they would take away even more from the dial it could even be the Goldberg Varationen . How cool is this?! ;-) "Poltrona Fra...  

Oliver, I was *almost* in heaven as per your definition...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-14:07
relaxing on a Poltrona Frau while appreciating the Academy - just Bach was regrettably missing ;-( As for hs111 begin the the danger zone - he dragged himself in yes wide open... No mercy here... Magnus

Nice chair...

 
 By: patrick_y : February 16th, 2015-10:32
That's a stunning chair. I wonder if I could have an Eames Lounge Chair made with Poltrona Frau leather?

Patrick, that is a nice idea in general.

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 17th, 2015-03:20
The leather of the chair shown is (should be; you never know) from Bottega Veneta and it was produced in their name by Poltrona Frau . The Eames Lounge Chair is made by Vitra or Herman Miller (depending on the market), another company and not even the sam... 

Talking about Poltrona Frau leather makes my mind spin...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 17th, 2015-04:35
about a custom made watch strap, and thinking about british luxury gives me another idea in the same direction... Cheers, Magnus

Thanks. Good thoughts.

 
 By: patrick_y : February 17th, 2015-11:05
You're right, different groups entirely. So not likely. Good point. Good insight.

I love the ideas behind...

 
 By: DonCorson : February 15th, 2015-09:24
and the execution looks great, but I am lost when I look at the dial. Each quadrant for itself, OK, but as a whole, busy and mixed up. I'd bet, however, that they will have a second version next year with that dial cleaned up. Zenith's design seems to be ... 

Don, I understand where you are coming from ...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 15th, 2015-14:09
and I support your suggestions a lot. For a true watchmaker's watch there is still too much fluff which could be left out, and I hope they get there finally! Best, Magnus

Wow !.. What a superb write-up & splendid pictorial !.. Only one tiny thing.. ;))

 
 By: hs111 : February 16th, 2015-06:17
Although I might be honored by being mentioned & pictured for this one shot of the watch aficionado ( with his son).. - But although there might be some vague resemblance ( glasses, some baldness, and apparently quite deep in admiring this piece), it is n... 

HS, an apology...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 16th, 2015-12:36
I was so sure it was you... The gentleman is a PuristS member and frequents mainly the Rolex forum, and is from Austria, too. Somewhere in my reengineering exercise I must have gotten the wrong exit. My heartfelt apologies for this lapsus, but being assoc... 

The origin of Zenith

 
 By: MTF : February 16th, 2015-12:16
Magnus, Thanks for the report. When Mr Favre-Jacot founded his company, it was eponymous and pursued chronometry of the highest order. His repeated winning of gold medals and chronometry prizes reaching the zenith with a model of the same name; resulting ...