Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
Zenith Coffee House Tales (xi): Academy Georges Favre-Jacot
Feb 11, 2015,06:44 AM
2015 is Zenith's much anticipated anniversary year, an occasion to celebrate the 150th year of the manufacture's existence. Zenith gave us a mouthwateringly delicious taste of what the brand is preparing for to commemorate its history in style: the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot:
It is a thoroughbred timepiece which abounds with delicacies that make us aficionados simply drool. And rightfully so does the brand put in the forefront of this watch a name that is less well known, but even more important for the industry as a whole:
Georges Favre-Jacot. Here is why:
"One of the first industrial watch manufactures in the modern sense of the term was born in a small Swiss village. To fully grasp the revolution such a company represented at the time, it is well worth trying to imagine the winter of 1864 in Le Locle, nestled in the Neuchâtel mountains. Like every other year, the season was far too harsh for tilling the soil, which drove farmers to become watchmakers. In 1865, Georges Favre-Jacot, a village youth barely 22 years old, founded his watch factory. It was not the first, nor the only one, but it would change forever the way of producing watches. He had spacious light-filled workshops built in a location where they still stand today. They were the first to be fitted with electric lighting, and he assembled all the region’s key talents there. Over the years, the factory grew into an international company renowned for the excellence of its production, and Georges Favre-Jacot became a captain of industry such as one encounters only a handful per century. While the firm remained under his guidance, the young visionary would consistently inspire his teams with a unique mind-set." [source: Zenith]
So, let's go back to the watch, with some help by means of abstraction kindly provided by Zenith:
On the technical side, the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot naturally houses – what else? – a high-frequency hand-wound El Primero 4810 movement with 50h of power reserve. Occupying the entire lower right-hand side of the dial, the power-reserve display between 4 and 5 o’clock, topped by the inscriptions “Force constante” and “High frequency”, gives an immediate indication of the movement’s high quality. The small seconds subdial between 7 and 8 o’clock bears the logo of the Manufacture with the guiding star.
But the feature that immediately catches the eye and will strike connoisseurs is the upper dial opening revealing the fusée and chain transmission with the barrel between 10 and 11 o’clock and the fusée around which the chain wraps itself located between 1 and 2 o’clock. A few seconds of winding the stem are enough to see the fusée and barrel turning counter-clockwise to the running direction in order for the chain to once again wrap around the fusée. Two bridges screwed to the mainplate support the arbors of the fusée and barrel, giving the watch the look of a late 19th century architectural accomplishment. The barrel is engraved with the inscriptions Zenith/Manufacture Le Locle.
'Time to get closer'... certainly I'd like to oblige:
Being not as cruel as I'd (sometimes) like to be, I'll start with main
raison d'être, the
usée and chain transmission system crowing the dial, first:
On the left you see the mainspring barrel with the well visible chain attachment (at ca. 11 o'clock).
In fully wound state the chain recoils around the barrel. At this dimensions, its a sight to behold!
If you look carefully you'll notice that Zenith masterfully also decorated the barrel's side with perlage:
Close-up of the chain.
In the course of transmitting the power from the barrel to the escapement, the chain slowly winds to the fusée with its snail shell-like acclivity. Its the carefully calculate acclivity which holds responsible for the equalisation of force along the mainspring's relaxation. Of course, all these parts are made in-house at Zenith!
To better understand how the power flows I'd suggest a look at the schematics below. Again, it shows the movement from the dual side to ease comprehension. Left, barrel; right, fusée. One wheel from the fusée (at 7 o'clock) drives both the main gear train (gears towards the left) as well as the power reserve indicator (gears towards the right):
The whole system has a very welcome (and quite important to me) side-effect: Not only does it surely improve accuracy, is a sight to behold - no, its also very, very pleasant to wind! Each turn of the crown is a sensation on its own right. If you have the chance to try it - please do! It is really surprising and comparable to the subtle yet precise pusher feel of a well-conceived chronograph movement.
Well, while we are at this is does not hurt to inspect the back side, right?
Here we'll see a new version of the El Primero called
Zenith Cal. 4810, featuring 222 parts, all of which very nicely done and finely finished. The general colour tone is yellow gold...
... with some sparkle if the light shines accordlingly:
The large 3/4 (or better: 4/5?) movement plate has as contrasting elements steel bridges holding the escapement elements (hairspring, balance and escapement wheel):
Absolutely in place with the standard of this movement Zenith opted for a
silicon escapement system. Overall, it looks like directly take from a more common El Primero (inclusive of the heat-blued screw securing the regulator), which once more attests to the excellence of this construction!
Another very charming touch is the click system, finely hand-finished and with a crank-connector resembling ancient key-wound pocket watch equivalents:
So much for the inner values, now I would invite you to appreciate the outer elements - its
well worth it!
Again, lets' start from the top, but this time we'll focus on sparkles - yes, there are
lots of
bright spots... Barrel & fusée bridges...
(in detail, since this is what we appreciate...)
... even the chain is polished!
The effect of the light spots is greatly accentuated by its natural
contre-point, the egg-shell textured silvery dial. It plays well with levels, as well - note how a second
antipode is added in form of the heat-blued, shiny hands!
The hands warrant a much closer look. Not only do they exude a magical dark blue...
... they have literally inner values - such as the mirror-polished hands' eyes. This is something I have rarely seen, but if one takes the time to inspect Zenith watches closely then one might find quite a few how have simply gorgeous hands marvellously executed eyes (some Elites come to mind).
So, in summary I would call this timepiece the horological equivalent to J.S. Bach's
Wohltemperiertes Klavier with an extraordinarily wide range of styles combined into a singular œvre. A pleasure to enjoy on a
Poltrona Frau chaise....
Special and at the same time elegant and unassuming. Marvellous in- and outside. Still, strictly tuned to a great line of heritage at one of the most respected watchmakers in the industry.
Yes, this is a
pièce extraordinaire !
So much that indeed the youngest of the Purists required an extra session with it... the
youngest Purists? Yes, the gentleman in the image is nobody else than a Purist gentleman
introducing the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot to his son... You really have to start them young, haven't you?
So, thanks for viewing, and please excuse the images. Not the optimal lightning (terrible mix of artificial and natural, almost impossible to correct... ;-()) in an otherwise quite appropriate location (this time, it was the newly opened Park Hyatt in Vienna). Al always, great thanks to
Miss R and the team of Zenith Austria & CEE!
Cheers,
Magnus
P.S.: By mistake I identified the gentleman with hs111 - this is wrong as I learned. He is a Purist nonetheless...
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-02-18 11:36:30