Zenith

Geneva Fair 2013: Zenith

 

Like the previous years, Zenith organized a pre-Basel exhibition during the SIHH week at the Hotel Kempinski to unveil the first watches of the 2013 collection. I will focus this report only on the watches which were officially presented during the Geneva week.

Without any doubt, Zenith is on a very good trend and I think that Jean-Frédéric Dufour's smile during the exhibition was a very good indicator of this very favourable context. Moreover, Felix Baumgartner's feat put the brand under the spotlights at the end of the last year and gave a positive dynamic to the staff. Obviously, the ambition remains the same in 2013 with a collection based on Zenith strong assets: its two basic calibers, Elite and El Primero and the aesthetical and technical approaches influenced by some key watches of the past.

2013 will be again a Pilot year to follow the steps done in 2012. The Pilot Type 20 was in 2012 an unique and extravagant watch created to pay homage to the long involvement of Zenith in the field of aviation watches and to use the impressive pocket watch 5011 movement. I can tell you that in 2013, the Pilot Type 20 will become the base of a line inside the collection. The watches inspired by this Type 20 are still under embargo so I can't tell you more. But stay tuned because we will see a lot of nice surprises at Basel!

Anyway, let's come back to the Geneva collection. I would like to highlight 3 watches which give a good picture of the current Zenith offer: a classic watch with a nice complication (an annual calendar), an open-heart dial which can be considered as a reminder of the Nataf period and a superlative watch with the Christophe Colomb Academy Hurricane. Let's start with this one.

A) Christophe Colomb Academy Hurricane

You know the principle of the Christophe Colomb timepiece: inspired by a Marine Chronometer, the watch features a roly-poly system in order that the regulating organ has as often as possible a horizontal position to escape from the influence of gravity.

It is not a Tourbillon even if the objective remains the same: to improve the accuracy by reducing this gravity influence. The regulating organ of the Christophe Colomb has not its own independant behaviour like a Tourbillon because it follows the wrist movement.

It is impressive to observe a Christophe Colomb watch when put on the wrist. The whole organ is constantly moving to find its appropriate position and the bubble allows the owner of the watch to fully enjoy the intricate mechanism.

Two criticisms can be made to this watch:

- at the end the organ is rarely on the horizontal position because the wrist is always moving
- some positions oblige the organ to enter a kind of uncertainty cone which is defined by a range of angles  in which the accuracy is far from being optimized even if, of course, it stays very briefly in these positions.

But I don't think they are main issues because the Christophe Colomb is before everything a watch which explores another technical solution and which is very enjoyable on the wrist. I like the way Zenith decided to act out of the box to create the gravity control module used by the Christophe Colomb.

The Christophe Colomb Academy Hurricane combines the roly-poly system with a chaîne-fusée  whose objective is to implement a constant force transmission. These two features don't have the same goal. The aim of the first one is to improve the accuracy. The aim of the second one is to improve the regularity. In a sense, this watch can be considered as an alternative to the Richard Lange Tourbillon PLM.

The watch has a diameter of 45mm which is the right size to take advantage of the details of the dial and of course of the contents of the bubble!

The small subdial on the left is the second hand while the power reserve indicator (50 hours) is located on the right.

Of course, due to its two systems, the movement has a very specific architecture. You will notice the shape of the main bridge and the location of the click and of the click spring:

The strong asset of the Christophe Colomb Academy Hurricane  is the ability to clearly observe the chain and the regulating organ. There isn't any frustration here, everything was designed to propose us a very animated, complex and enjoyable front side!

It is very surprising but despite the size of the bubble on the back of the movement, the watch is comfortable. The movement is made of 939 components which is a huge number (we are in the Grande Complication range). But the roly-poly system aka the gravity control module contains 575 parts.

An unusual feeling on the wrist, a hypnotizing watch, a great achievement from Zenith enhanced by the chaîne-dusée:

B) El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date with bracelet

A bracelet is available now for the Chronomaster Grande Date which is good news.

Even if I'm not a fan of the open dials, I must confess that the Chronomaster Grande Date is pretty convincing.

The watch is large (45mm) but the dial doesn't seem to be unbalanced: it is not the case everytime with Zenith when they use big cases.

The off-centered big date display, the dial opening and the moon and sun phase create an original dial which stays harmonious.

And as the hour counter was removed, the minute counter is not cut what is highly appreciated for a chronograph watch!

The dial finishings are excellent for the price tag and I like the subtle sunrays on the moon and sun phase indicator.

The bracelet is well integrated on the overall design and follows very well the main case. I prefer a leather strap for this watch but the bracelet is a nice addition to this line.

Last remark about this watch: the  version I prefer  is with the black dial. It reduces the feeling of size and the moon and sun phase indicator becomes more visible. The Chronomaster Grande Date is far from being my fav Zenith but it is at least my fav Zenith with an open dial.

C) Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Edition Boutique

I would like to finish the report with for me the nicest surprise of the exhibition: the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Edition Boutique.

You remember the previous version of the Captain Winsor with its silver or blue dial, its guillochage on the central part and the long indexes whose purpose was to balance the dial.

The dial was redesigned to propose this new version and... I love it!

The case diameter remains the same (42mm) but the watch looks bigger now due to a less busy dial.

The railroad and the applied figures give a very refined touch. The design is inspired by a Marine Chronometer watch.

Dial layout is similar to the previous models. Of course, the Annual Calendar module is the Ludwig Oechslin's one and Zenith is able to use it thanks to the partnership with the Musée International d'Horlogerie.

If the basic movement (the EP) is a bit too small for the case (look at the position of the two subdials), it is not the case of the Annual Calendar Module (the date window is close to the bezel). If you look at the MIH watch, you will notice that the three indicators are in a single file. At Zenith, they moved the date window to put it at 6 o'clock and I prefer this option in the context of a chronograph. The dial is balanced and the applied figures also contribute to this feeling.

The 4054 movement is finished with Zenith standards. The finishings are not exceptional but the beauty of the movement comes from its architecture. I would have preferred a more refined rotor but the watch already gives a lot for its price.

This Captain Winsor has a lot of charm thanks to its elegance and its original dial. All the indicators seem to be positioned on the lower part but again, the applied figures, the brand name and the Zenith star balance this lay-out.

I had a lot of pleasure to wear it:

This watch is a chronograph whish doesn't look like a chronograph. The main complications (chronograph and Annual Calendar) are well combined and this achieved combo explains why the Captain Winsor is so seducing.

The 3 watches of the report share in common the use of an El Primero movement as a base. They all have a 5hz frequency even if they clearly don't feature the same complications. Another proof of the potential and of the efficiency of the famous movement.

I would like to thank a lot the Zenith team for the warm welcome during the Geneva week.

Fr.Xavier

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