Geneva Week 2015 Zenith: homage to Charles Vermot, artistry and magical refinements!

Jan 29, 2015,07:45 AM
 

Geneva in January - that is first and foremost SIHH, but there are a few other brands who seize the opportunity to present themselves - one of them is Zenith. Geneva is a side-event for them, which the brand uses to present refinements (see Art's, Oliver's and my report from 2014 - here !). This year was no exception!



Unmistakable highlight was another iteration of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage  (3 Hallelujahs for a shorter name...!!!), Version II , which from the front looks exactly like the first one I showed live and in the metal here .





One of its outstanding features is the unique gyrotourbillon to eliminate influences on gravity, the second is the absolutely breathtaking artwork represented both in sculpturing and enamelling techniques. Well, you have seen that...




... but not this:




While the first iteration sported an extremely artistically done representation of Columbus' vessel Santa Maria which he used for his first voyage in 1492. The new one tells the story of the last pre-colonisation times, with indigenous people (left) presenting Mr Columbus (right) with tropical fruits and a parrot (center). Amazingly done!




... somehow I feel more attracted to the fruits... ;-)

Are words needed? Sometimes I would like to wear it 'sunny side up'...




Delicate expressions of top-flight craftsmanship, engraving and micro-painting showcase the full measure of Zenith’s virtuosity in creating horological works combining technical refinement with magnificent artistry - limited to 10 pieces!

Next up is an almost adorable (and finely revised!) version of the El Primero 36'0000 VPH - here in a steel case and a beautiful vintage-y off-white lacquered dial:




42mm, but note how they fine-tuned the dial: The date moved from 6 to the 4:30 position with a slightly enlarged window (how considerate, thus ensures that Nicolas (amanico) will let this watch untouched so we can admire it...):




Movement of course is the automatic El Primero 400 B:




It wears quite big, but this is something I would have to confirm... A really classical, charming piece - well done!




Then, the 3 watches of the Charles Vermot homage collection (Pilot Type 20 GMT, El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Open; Captain Power Reserve) - common features to all: 
- special dials
back crystal sporting a very finely laser-engraved list of all chronometric records Zenith ever was awarded in its 150 years of existence
limited to 50 pieces 
- boutiques-exclusive

First one is the Pilot Type 20 GMT: 48mm titanium case:




Superb blue sunday dial...




The secret is on the back side: display back revealing an Elite movement (hey, and it does not look too small even, quelle surprise) and unique engraved case-back:




48mm of gorgeousness. Too big for most (including myself), but a serious watch for sure with very delicate and subtle limitation features!




Second piece is the El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Open. Comes in steel (42mm) with a blue sun ray dial highlighting the silicon escapement parts:




Adorned display back as above:








Last of then is the Captain Power Reserve, with a velvet-finshed black dial, powered by an Elite movement




Also here the common theme:




This is what I would call a speciality for those in the know...




The El Primero Synopsis is expanded by this rather sexy contender, in black with a steel case...





The family membership to the famous El Primero can't be overlooked. Note also the silicon escapement:






And finally a lovely piec for the ladies: An El Primero Open with an interwoven diamond-set bezel - note the two intertwined lines of diamonds on a oval bezel:




Mechanics taken serious also for the ladies:



This one come in steel, but can be had in red gold with a MOP or a slate-grey velvet finished dial as well (the latter being very tempting I suppose...).

Finally - I have only press images but those are really fantastic - the three versions of a very restrained and elegant Captain Winsor Annual Calendar (boutique-only!). I have seen the one in the middle last year but the left and the right one - tempting:




That's all I have - there s more but this will have to wait until I had the chance to see them in 'nature' (for which I can't wait...!!!). A new refined design, very well matching to Zenith as the mechanical brand which let's the intrinsic value speak for itself - what is your opinion?

Best,
Magnus

(Note: last year we could count on the help of Art in drafting the text. This year it was the other way round: François (foversta) had the appointment and took the images, yours truly did the backoffice writing. I will have the opportunity the see the watches soon and will report back. Until then a big thanks to FX for helping us getting the news out in a true PuristS' collaboration!)

This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-02-02 01:09:57


More posts: AcademyCaptain Power ReserveChristophe Colomb HurricaneChristophe Colomb Hurricane GrandChronomaster Power ReserveEl PrimeroEl Primero 410 Tribute to Charles VermotElitePilotSynopsisType 20 GMTWinsor Annual Calendar

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Winsor

 
 By: ifraher : January 29th, 2015-08:25
The Winsor boutique models were released last year, at least the version (grey dial) was, I bought mine in May 2014. I really like the revised dial El Primero, I think it will age well, and hopefully has an influence on dial layout hierarchy on their othe... 

Thanks for the clarification!!!!

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : January 29th, 2015-13:25
I will revise my report accordingly - and I would really love to see a picture of your Winsor! Best, Magnus

I have been meaning to take one for quite some time,

 
 By: ifraher : January 29th, 2015-14:33
I will get my camera out this weekend and share with the forum. Regards

white el primero

 
 By: gunungbesarsekali : January 30th, 2015-05:49
that white dial 36000 vph el primero is such a for the info bout the price ?

Here in Austria it should be ...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 1st, 2015-10:07
6900€. This is the one I am really looking forward to seeing in the metal. Cheers, Magnus

Zenith watches: One for Lust and One for Real

 
 By: MTF : February 6th, 2015-16:32
Thanks Magnus and FrX for the mini preview. I am also keen to see the Zenith watches at Baselworld 2015. The watch with a mouthful of names - Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage Version II - is the one to lust for (literally). I like this new...