Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
PoT 2014: Visit at dial-maker Fehr & Cie S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds (iii)
Dec 07, 2014,09:35 AM
Ahhh! We already know you were impatiently awaiting this kind of stuff! Those of you that gave us the honour of reading the first and second parts of our report (
click here! ), certainly have discovered a great number of fascinating and surprising details in respect to manufacturing a fine watch dial.
Our visit of the Fehr factory, situated in La Chaux-de-Fonds, was guided by Fehr’s CEO Patrice Luthi (supported by Zenith’s product manager Romain Marietta) and was a kind of tour-de-force across many departments. Our first two instalments (see above) covered the "mechanical" departments, where raw dials are created from brass blancs until they reach their final shape in a good level of finishing. This third article will cover the cosmetics, if you like, i.e. all colouring and printing work. In other words, we have visited the "chemical" and "assembling" departments. So, let's get started...
Initially, before any dial is further worked on, a quality inspector assures the integrity of the raw dials and – if needed, remove any residual dust from dial blanks.
At this point, we have to make a distinction between different surface treatments. Dials may be sprayed (just like a car body) or electroplated with different galvanic techniques, often used in succession. The former is a rather simple step; the latter most obviously not, and there is a great number of secrets involved in achieving a constantly same surface appearance. Certain colours are particularly difficult to create, such as blue or certain shades of brown. It's actually great fun to talk to the ‘chemical wizards’ in a dial manufactory. They have their magic potions, and often one is allowed to look but not to take notes or even pictures…
Fehr S.A. offers both types of surface colouration. As also the electroplated dials receive a protecting surface layer of lacquer (varnish), we will describe the process using such a dial and start with the "galvanoplastie" means electroplating: during this process a metal coating is electrochemically applied on the dial, to give it the desired hue.
Do you remember this dial? We've already seen it being stamped and cut. Now, it has gained its argenté surface. Obtaining any given hue is a multistep procedure. Batches of dials are mounted on the so-called 'christmas trees'...
... and then processed through a series of baths for galvanisation (chaînes de bains):
Following electroplating, a dial is subjected to the so called base preparation (préparation fonds). This basically implies that certain areas, often scales of the dial, are given the specified final surface finishing, mostly a matte treatment. The machine used to apply this step is basically a polishing machine featuring specialised polishing discs (which precisely match in their width the specified dimensions of the area to be treated).
A matte surface is not simply a matte surface, but parameters like granularity, depth and pressure crucially determine the shine of the dial. On the left, note the Cartier dial mounted on the support.
During the process, polishing mixture is constantly applied to guarantee a reproducible outcome.
The output looks just as follows (pre on the left, post on the right)
Now, the dial is ready for the next steps: Varnishing (vernissage) and Lacquering (laquage).
Both are essentially the same. Electroplated dials such as the Cartier one here receive a varnish whereas the initially mentioned coloured dials get their final colour through a layer of lacquer. Fehr can basically create any desired lacquer colour, and has all primary colour pigments, preparations and solvents in stock:
When we talk about colours, testing must be thoroughly and systematic. So there were test-benches where specialists prepare lacquer mixtures according to Pantone specifications, and try them out on test-dials.
We are also proud to show you a SIHH preview: the prototype dial for the very first 36 mm Officine Panerai for ladies... (we're joking, of course)
Spraying the dials is much alike spraying a car body, dimensions differ, of course:
After having been varnished and laquered the dials must rest, to let them dry up.
The more we proceed in the factory visit, the more the dials are close to the final look. Of course, it's a banality, but this theory has a corollary: for the second time in this factory visit we're able to recognize an operation, having seen it frequently, even on some watch catalogue. We're talking about the Tampography (décalque, also known as pad printing). The first time we've immediately guessed the purpose of a machine was when we've seen a rose machine, used for applying guillochage.
So, maybe most of you already know what's pad printing: it is a printing process that can transfer a 2-D image onto any 2-D or 3-D (or otherwise difficult) object. The properties of the silicone pad enable it to pick the image up from a flat plane and transfer it to the final surface, even if that isn't flat, just like the Cartier dial they were printing that day. Let's follow the various steps.
Here we have some un-decorated (but galvanised and varnished) dials. First of all draft dial must be positioned on the printing base. Of course, positioning must be extremely precise and is achieved with the help guiders. We have seen a few instances where positioning did not succeed, and respective dial blanks were rejected.
The pattern to be printed is laser-edged into precious steel plates used as templates. The edging basically leaves tiny rims which retain paint that in turn is picked up by the silicone pad:
Then the silicone pad is positioned over the raw dial…
… and finally the ink is stamped onto the dial.
Here it is! Successfully printed!
Frequently, quality checks are performed to eliminate any imperfections as soon as possible:
Quite a number of different dials are made in parallel. Here you can see another very famous dial (and the output should be familiar for Zenith lovers...). Inking the silicone pad...
Printing...
Checking...
Well done!
A few other examples of beautifully made dials, and even one with a very complex surface structure...
With this, we have covered all colouring, painting and printing of a dial. In our final instalment we will visit those departments that manufacture and then carefully apply the indices.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2014-12-07 14:54:43 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2015-01-05 08:08:46